Valentina Klimenko comments
Victoria Gres, who opened Ukrainian Fashion Week with her second line «Victoria Gres Denim», presented the sport look, which is very unusual for her romantic urban style with retro taste. Races, sport cars and «Formula 1» appear in mind, when you watch the girls in knitted helmets, fingerless gloves, sport jackets with stripes and branded applications. And all is combined with jeans that are produced with using the new processing technology - shiny coating. Victoria Gres's girl took from the «past life» short blouse-dresses, elegant silhouette of jackets with short sleeves; aerial chiffon blouses with wide sleeves are delicately combined with knitted tops. Contrast stripes and bands add dynamics to colored pullovers.
Svetlana Tegin's collection can be an excellent example for students of art and design faculties that explains what does the perfect taste means, how can an image on the catwalk express any feeling or idea - tenderness, purity, sadness, defencelessness. The new collection «Retro-future» is built on the contrasts, that are so dear for Svetlana - romantic and naïve 50-60-ies and the geometry of the first decade of the new century, transparent organza and fur, Dior's silhouette with bell-sleeves and tight mini-skirts, aerial as clouds chiffon dresses and knitted sleeves and cuffs with leather stripes. We reminded how naïve and touchingly can be black strait coat with white fur collar, and tight overall out of the delicate cashmere is also very impressive.
According to Olena Dats' desire the next autumn and winter are not so simple - even the office suits are created as transformers, so what can we say about the free style? At the same time, the official outfits remind the strict elegance of the 30-ies. Circle is the main shape of the collection, so the clothes are almost without «acute angles»: skirts and shorts are cut as circles, circle is the basic cut of jackets and dresses, and if you move, for example, a sleeve, you can get a pocket or a skirt. Another basis of the collection is asymmetry - very actual for the autumn-winter season and is traditional for Olena Dats. If you add difference in textures, complex cut and amber accessories you can recognize the Lviv design school.
What does the Aleksey Zalevskiy's collection look like, if there is no live chamber orchestra and dogs on the catwalk, to take the muzzles, dog-collars and metal thorns off the models' faces? It is the ironic collection for the megapolis citizen, that is skillfully combined of comfortable knitted sweaters with printed pugs and bones, extraordinary lacquered fur coats and skirts, woolen skirts and jackets and tight dresses for office are decorated with prints and embroideries of running mastiffs. If that is not enough for emphasizing of the urban life, there are tulle underskirt that adds an extra volume to the regular skirt and well-known Zalevskiy's guipure jackets with knitted cuffs. The silver dresses with sequins and shape of the 90-ies were dominating in the evening dresses block, which was eagerly awaited by the guests of the show.
