Valentina Klimenko comments
The fashionable Friday heat was opened by Edward Nasyrov for TM «Stolichny», his collection «Bridges» was integral, urban, with cosmopolitan mix of youth casual and business style. The dryness and strictness of office dress-code is softenede by sneakers and various cuts, folds, constructive details which executed the architectural mission. Men's semicloaks, pantaloons with vertical folds, pleated pockets and hanging codpiece. The silhouette of both women and men outfits is rather simple from the first sight, even minimalistic, but if you look closely to the details and simplicity will appear not such obvious. Evening dresses are long black sun-dresses, with complex crossing of lines, elegant grey suits with the shortened coats «Stolichny» offers for the gentlemen.
The clientele of Larisa Lobanova for «Garderobchic» is not afraid of changing. Therefore the collection presented at UFW comprised a number of themes – the black-and-white one, playing on the universality of white shirt, and the bohemian, with elegant suits and dresses made of cotton fabrics adorned with frivolous prints with the bets made on the exclusivity of fabrics.
Another adherent of conceptual constructivism, Annete Gortz has conquered the audience with the short-spokenness and variety of black color. Customarily the collection included white shirts, voluminous crumpled-looking jersey jumpers and coats with distinctively loose cut. As usual, Annete Gortz has a sufficient supply of conceptual white shirts, structural and stylish. The overcoats with free cutting and laces on the down edges do not limit a rapid step, tight as rubber pants, a skirt out of wrinkled fabric does not require additional charges of time on ironing, knitted jumpers with skin details in the zones that need more defense – on elbows, for example: Annete Gortz does not betray functionality and comfort.
Irina Karavay for Nota Bene & Karavay is rather an exception from this bunch of «minimalists». Judged by the complexity of her clothes it can hardly be considered prêt-a-porter any more. Her dresses with complicated cut and a striking ability to fit the figure with perfection as well as a hand-made décor are definitely a piece of art - embroidery by filaments, crystals Swarovsky and large metallic «drops of rain». The main rule is length not below knees. A separate block is knitting: corset over dresses, wide scarves with large metallic beads on edges, folded skirts with same beads, skirts-tulips with bulky cuffs.
The collection betrays the naïveté of the 80-ies, sporty functionalism and a cautious femininity.
Commercial mood of Anna Bublik found its expression in up-to-date silhouettes, varieties of fashionable fabrics and broad creative freedom. Lacquered materials, a play on volume and a trendy color palette are all highly characteristic for Anna Bublik's F/W collection. Anna began new collection with the lacquered of dust color trapezoids, sleeveless jackets, bolero and continued this theme in bags, belts and shoes. Volumes were in fluffy sleeves, jackets with bulky collars, «round» shorts. Functional narrow pantaloons are united with shorts, knitted sweaters with chiffon wings, short cocktail-dresses of acid-light-green color with quiet jackets of intellectual tint of green, fluffy voluminous collars with delicate scarves. Collection was united by flat large metallic buttons and different variants of circle decor.
Svetlana Bevza works with minimalism, that always requires perfect fulfillment, and Svetlana call herself the perfectionist. The main character of Bevza's collection is Mary Poppins – severe, educated, clever, but funny and inconstant. Mary gave to collection the elegant black hats and flounces dark deep colors and asymmetry. Dresses and overcoats don't have straight lines, the edges have triangles on the line of hem, the collars are also like asymmetric triangles, asymmetry is in fastenings and cuts. Trendy cocktail dresses with one sleeve, conceptual – closed at the front, but with the opened back, very glamorous black checked blouse with the row of bows, and very aristocratic are contrasting black and white dresses.
