Valentina Klimenko comments
Saturday, 3 pm, not the prime-time. This is the time when somebody is just waking up. But if there is Liliya Litkovska's fashion show, you should surely awake so early cause it worth that. Litkovska's glamorous punk blew up the full of guests hall. The 80-ies style coats with stretched shoulders, sleeves with emerald colored soft pleats and loose mohair leggings with golden spraying, fuchsia colored loose collars and huge bags with leopard prints, quilted jackets and velvet dress with typical British coloring – faded pink with shallow flowerets. And evening dresses are certainly with sequins. Someone can receive all that as an ghastly eclecticism, but to tell the truth – stylistic of Liliya's collection is perfect and faultless. There is a feeling of Vivienne Westwood's presence, founder of punk, fashion-hooligan, which acknowledges neither tendencies nor discounts on clothes.
Christina Bobkova created quiet, correct, elegant collection and reading-book show, when green starts as prints on cream color tights and then fluently passes to green, at first partly, then totally, the green changes a few tints and becomes hot yellow. Christina presented semiovercoats, jackets, cloaks, overcoats – all A-type silhouette and with a short sleeve or sleeve 3/4, skirts-pencils, narrow pants and a lot of dresses. A delicate milky colored decor on the overcoats – golden prints, brooches, belts-cords and embroidered belts, high lacquered gloves create the completed elegant image.
As Xenia Marchenko designs in teen style, with features of minimalism and 80-ies, ironic and non-standart young people adores it. Her show was full of frisky atmosphere of relaxed crowd, and her clients-characters brightly illustrated the brand «X'U». Without regard to infantilism of models, nostalgic textures of kindergartens - flannel, printed cotton, shallow flowers, pictures of pyjamas, carrot and violet colors, funny drawn little men on T-shirts, this collection is very commercial. Successful tricks are knitted tights with stretched knees, weaved leggins, touching little gloves on scarves and caps.
Collection of Anna Babenko had no pants. Another ferrous rule of designer for a next season – not to drop length of dresses and skirts below knees. Anna offered magnificent volumes, pleated sleeves, multi-layered sets, silk and organza, smooth and shiny surfaces. Colors are also dramatic – the black starts the game of textures (silk dresses with bead embroidery and woolen overcoats-trapezoids), the red does not reach the peak of brightness and remains in a range from a light claret to dark coral, the beige softens the first and second colors.
Tatyana Zemskova and Olena Vorozhbyt were almost unique (apart from an excursion to Siberia) in reminding us that winter in Ukraine can be inclement and snowy and produced an unbelievably beautiful collection which has everything from mohair dress-coats to fur cocoon jackets to unexpected combinations of satin and mohair. Next season they love plasticity of fur with a long nap, jackets-bullets and jackets-cocoons, chiffon with the smooth transitions of colors, unexpected combinations of atlas and mohair, viscose dresses with nice mix of brown and rose. A loose silhouette and fluffy skirts, wide belts that underline a waist, and clear proportions of the dresses-tulip. White and milky in different hues and textures play the first violin, and grey wool, beige knitted fabric, black silk, black and white stripes underline the snowy mood of collection.
Oksana Karavanska whose imagination can hardly be confined within the limits of just one collection divided her creative energy and has devoted the first part of it to the staging of the show in accordance with which girls on high-heels had to ascend a steep staircase to the very ceiling. As the result the second half of the designer's creativity has gone to the collection proper which looked exceptionally coherent and harmonious. Creative hand-made knitted fabric, evening blouses with embroidery, grey checked office dresses and suits, grey overcoats with torn edges and friable texture, high lacquered boots, embroidered weaved caps – absence of universal formula of style. And, as always, whimsical bags that highlight the unique individuality of their owner.
Andre Tan was inspired by Paris and impressionists while creating his new collection «Painting». It seemed that designer tried to distance maximally out of the stranger influencing and closed in his creative laboratory. He continues to develop his own direction smart-couture, but unexpectedly sews the cashmere evening dresses and silk outerwear. Grey sweaters with knitted braids, and top which passes into the scarf adds the bohemian style, cashmere blouse takes the shape of flower which blossomed out, and fluffy tulle skirts add romanticism and femininity to futuristic image. Collection have the «special» things – for example, fluffy skirt with the delicate knitted fabric that looks like a shawl-spiderweb, emerald evening dress for «red carpets» seems to be made of 10 meters of silk. The collection gives the impression of romanticism, authenticity, wholeness and actuality.
