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03 17 , 2008
Decembrists failed to meet the pilots

Decembrists failed to meet the pilots Reported by Tetyana Khmelivska and Valentina Klimenko

Julia Aysina performs her collection at the Ukrainian Fashion Week for the second time. If her debut was like the first attempt at writing, then winter-autumn collection proved that Aysina really has a creative handwriting. In the collection black colour with turquoise, violet and pink droplets prevail. The basic models are wide wool trousers and knitted skirts supplemented with knitted pullovers, blouses with sleeves, scarves, capes. Caps were especially beautiful. They were made out of the most delicate mohair and gave the image the Paris charm. Julia Aysina has all chances to become the Ukrainian Sonya Ryckiel, she is good at working with knitted fabric and her strong point is namely the work with mohair.

Angela Angel called her collection for Angel Studio «Connections...without PR». The color was, probably, the main distinctive feature of the collection. Yellow coats and jackets, yellow patent-leather boots, emerald green roll-neck sweater with brown trousers, yellow belt and red patent-leather shoes seemed to outline the thought direction. But later on we could see on the podium the models in the fitted dresses with small flowers pattern and draped décolleté and in the middle calf flared skirts and blouses but in blue-green color combination. Also we could see red blouse with big white spots with brown trousers and dresses in the Greek style.

Maryna Mulyar preserved in her collection for «Artinelli» the common frames of classics and retro. She overstepped the limits of dull office colors (grey was blended with wine red, rich blue, fuchsia color, black, strawberry and silver colors) and went to meet the trends. Coats, raincoats with fixed waistline and woman forms – basque, luxuriant sleeves with big red-grey checks made out of the taffeta look looser and more audacious than usually. Tight silk trousers with high waistline in combination with chiffon blouses make an impression of «great feminity». Evening dresses include a little black dress as well as little fuchsia color dresses made out of the taffeta. And for casual style Maryna proposes loose knitted dresses, sun-dresses, blousons, decorated with rectangles and circles of the black and metal colors.

Elena Ivanova performs her collection at the Ukrainian Fashion Week not for the first time and now she made her debut under her real surname Ivanova. The subject matter of her collection is the 70-ies, pop-art (expressed in the color scale) and according to the stylistics the fashion show, presented by Sergiy Bobak, was very accurate. The echo of the 70-ies were quilted slim line shirts, and the accessories–quilted clutches, where instead of the fastener vinyl plate is used, sharp collar pelerines, huge double-sided scarves, mittens were just a flight of fancy. One of the most important features of the collection became short-cut bell-bottomed trousers or culottes.

The main color of the collection is yellow, silhouettes–X and trapezium, nostalgia symbol–sports shirts and blousons with the quotations from the songs of Pugachova.

Only the enumeration of all the colors used in the collection of Lyudmila Kislenko takes a lot of place: violet, crimson, black, white, blue, light-lilac, coral, emerald, silver, the color of the faded rose, «jeans», violet «in cucumbers» and prints that look like the train of the firebird. Especially interesting turned out manual wicker-work made out of the silk, cut into the stripes–tops, corsets or dress elements were made using this technique. Among the evening clothes very beautiful appeared to be a dress with short skirt, that turn into the train from behind, and that was performed by Balenciaga in 1958.

Viktor Anisimov's collection for TM «WAWA» demonstrates the alternative approach of the designer towards the mental Ukrainian idea of the fashion and the orientation towards the capital of fashion experiments London. Artist always win over the marketing specialist and he didn't compromise with his sharp sense of fashion again. Short-cut rude jackets, tight short-cut trousers, tight short coats of the straight silhouette and white shirts with funny pilots and airplanes created a tender, impudent and a little bit tragic image. The sport part was presented by knitted trousers, jackets are fastened with zipper and two rows of buttons are used only for decoration, trousers caught by the metal zippers from behind and the level of pulling can be regulated, jackets are as usually of the complex cut and have in this time four pockets. Structurally collection was planned and presented ideally, proportions are fashionable, though they remind of the Anisimov's collection that was performed 2 years ago, and the image of the modern city man is accurate.

The collection of the first line Victoria Gres by Gres appeared to be almost minimal –pleasant pure lines, minimum of decor, not bright colors, simple silhouettes. As usually the image, production of defile, hair styles, manner of execution and coloring by Gres correspond to the name and idea of the collection for 100% . Thus, «Decembrist women» wear elegant coats with slightly underlined breast line, cosy wicker-works that remind of the home-made knitting, loose knitted dresses with prints, that look like the chintz ornamental patterns of the 19 century, namely the combination of two colors. Evening clothes – tender dresses in the copper color of the pastel shades with high waistline supplemented with the beading, dresses with the skirts covered with the tulle, handmade lace, that cover long luxuriant skirt. There was very few decor as well as accessories.

After the trip to Japan Victor Zavadskiy returned with lots of ideas and great suitcase. As strange it may seem but the Japanese influence was reflected mostly in the accessories. And the clothes are quite European – little dresses that appeal to the Japanese infancy and eroticism at the same time, elongated silhouette. Aggressiveness to the image is given by the camouflage coloring, leather lace-belts, leather insets and the piquancy is given by the anime motives, the feminity is symbolized by the muffs. The models for free and open for the fantasies woman are made out of the knitted fabric, silk sateen, velvet and combine grey and black with coral and violet.







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