Valentina Klimenko comments
Photo: POUSTOVIT collection
Anna Sosnovskaya presents her collection on UFW for the second time, but it is possible to say, that it is a designer of the European level. Anna feels a fashion, style and image very delicate, masterly works with material and texture. Multicomponent clothes with the lots of details fit perfect, without any fold and wrinkle. Designer made an unbelievable thing – added in masculine clothes typically womanish elements: multi-layeredness, soft drapery, lacquered knee-boots with shoe-laces... And here men look more masculine! Main color of collection is black, but a designer says, that black is a not sentence on the winter. Any model can be executed in other color (although in black they are very showy). It was one of the most fashionable collections on UFW.
«Global Chick» is collection of Serge Smolin for TM «Idol», which was created for dynamic and active metrosexual living in megapolis. Dyed fur neckpieces upon sweaters, collarets on jackets and overcoats, classic narrow on the hem pantaloons with wide cuff, some more democratically models are with knitting cuff and they don't lose the respectability. The «Idol» shirts – in the best standards of luxurious men's brands: ideally cut out, with white collars and cuffs, look perfectly with white narrow belts. The classic suits of classic masculine colors are diluted by well cut out jackets of freer silhouette with belts over a waist. There is a lot of high-quality knitted fabric in collection – thin jumpers, cardigans and large scarves. Indeed chicly.
Collection of Alexandr Gapchuk the «Real Man» showed bold and bright appearance - multi-layeredness, fur trimming on classic suits, ruches on shirts, golden prints, bulky sleeves and flounces which are fastened to the classic cloak. Alexander foresees the cold winter, that's why there is a lot of fur in collection – jackets, bags, scarves and cuffs, leather cloaks with fur collars, thus fluffy textures of incomprehensible pock-marked colors. Designer offers pants-pipes, shortened and narrowed trousers, even in classic suits pantaloons are narrower and shorter, than used to be. The trend «volume» Gapchuk embodied in bilateral jackets-bullets – from one side, knitted fabric of rough bundle, from the second – leather texture. Colors the following autumn-winter – classic noble: grey, brown, black, olive, pistachio, sea-green.
In collection of Liliya Poustovit all trends of next season are lined up clearly and consistently: dark colors – black, brown, grey, beige, contrast of textures - mat plus gloss, silhouette - cocoon, details - architectural. And for the third season the main element of the wardrobe is dress. On the basis of one silhouette no one dress in collection of Liliya did not remind previous: always laconic knitting or silk top is complemented by asymmetric woolen flounces, which are sewn on intentionally wrong, and the form of flounce each time is deformed, and the method of gathering of flounce is «individual». Cocktail dresses as well as casual have free silhouette, however, femininity is underlined, but very delicate and touchingly. There are many dresses in collection which combine two lengths – at the front shorter, behind more longer, with the same principle are jackets-cloaks. Suits, coats and skirts, which are done as trapezoids, look very interesting. Dresses with drapery as the inverted stair are unbelievable in motion, as well as rectangular mackintosh with cuts for hands, all is made in a single copy, and it underlines the uniqueness of Poustovit's designer style, which is laconic, but not simple.
